Fab Fours Jeep Front Bumper

Well I just installed my Fab Fours Bumper and my 8,000lbs winch that I got for xmas from my dad

played with the idea of using the univeral winch plate…

can can we say hell no!

so first i removed the front bumper (torx 55 bolts)

new bumper

i rested the bumper on some bocks

place the winch fairlead plate on

bolt the winch to the bumper (sandwiching the fairlead plate between bumper and winch)

(dont forget to install the fair lead befor installing winch

bolt bumper to jeep with 6 3/4″ bolts

wire up the winch

and lastly

SYE Oil Seal

I had To Repace The Oil Seal On The SYE on my new tcaase, becasue it was leaking…

Tools Needed

  • 1/4″ Drive Ratchet
  • 13mm Socket
  • 1/2″ Drive Ratchet
  • 1 1/8″ socket
  • Stright Blade Screw Driver
  • Hammer
  • Loc-tite
  • Grease

1 hour

new seal:

here is the seal i ordered for my sye(idk what sye i have), its spec for the teraflex sye…

first i packed the new seal with some grease to hold the spring inplace

then i removed all the bolts holting the drive shaft to the sye output yoke (13mm)

use the 1 1/8″ socket to remove the nut that hold the yoke on

pull on the yoke, it should pull off easily

use the screwdriver to pry out the seal, working the srewdrive all the way around the seal

new vs. old

slid on the new seal

use the hammer to ever so lightly tap the seal into the sye, make sure to evenly work all the around the circumfrence of the seal

yay its int!


slide yoke back on

use socket to start and hand tighten the nut

and tighten really tight, ya dont want it coming back off lol

reinstall drive shaft and your done!

rember to start all the bolts on the drive shaft cv joint be for tightening

and your done

Adjusted The Rear Upper Control Arms

Well I Just Adjusted The Rear Upper Control Arms To Remove The Drive Line Vibes…

Tools Needed

  • 420 Channel Locks
  • Ratchet
  • 15mm Socket


First I Lossed The Retaining Nut With The Channel Locks on both Rear Upper Control Arms

Then I Used The Ratchet and 15mm Socket To Remove The Upper Control Arm Bolt From The Frame Pocket

While Both Arms Are Hanging Down Turn Them Both Counter Clockwise To Extend Them

Remember to do both side equally, if you have any hope of retaining your current alignment

After you extend the control arms to the desired lenght, you can reinstall the control arm bolts in the control arm pocket…

you’ll have to push up on the pinion to roll the pinion up so you can line up the arms to the bolt holes in the pocket

i highly recommend to use a floor jack for that… but i just used brute strength to roll the pinion up.

once those bolts are tight, dont forget to retighten the Retaining Nut With The Channel Locks on both Rear Upper Control Arms


And Now I Have No More Drive Line Vibes!

Trail Shaft

Tools Needed

  • Ratchet
  • Sockets 8mm, 13mm
  • Loctite





First I Removed The Bolts & Clips I installed on the rear pinon yoke for safe keeping (8mm)

then installed all the bolts on the tcase output yoke and the cv end of the trail shaft (13mm)
i also used Loctite just to be safe.

[u][b]rember to install all the bolts hand tight befor tightening down any of the bolts[/b][/u]

the bolts and clips on the rear pinon yoke (8mm)
i also used Loctite just to be safe.


Gen-Right Steering Box Skid Plate

what was in the box

first remove bottom bumper bolt (torx 55t)

and remove the bottom forward most bolt from your steering box (16mm)

use the two bolts you just removed to hold the new skid inplace

mark holes with a center punch and drill out with 5/16″ drill

hit holes with paint to prevent rust

install the 3/8″ self taping bolts and your done

NP231J To Mod’ed NP231J Swap

I’m doing a  NP231J To Mod’ed NP231J Swap

Tools Needed:

Rachet Wrench
Sockets: 8mm 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 19mm
14mm openend/boxend combo wrench
14mm racheting boxend wrench

this swap took me 6 hours

the Mod’ed NP231J Tcase has a SYE, Wide Chain, & Tera-2lo

tcase Fluid

the first thing I did was suport the trans

next I removed the bolts that hold the trans mount to the tcase skid (13mm)

dont for get to write things down and to use ziploc bags and a sharpie

next I removed all the bolts that hold the tcase skid on (19mm)

next I removed the bolds holding the front driveshaft to the output yoke on the tcase (8mm)

next i removed the bolts that hold the rear driveshaft to the input yoke on the axle (8mm)

next disconect the connectorsfor the 4wd light and the speedo

dont forget to remove the wireing harness clips

necx remove the shifting linkage

next remove the trans mount off the trans (15mm)

remove the breather line off the tcase

remove the nuts that hold the tcase to the trans (14mm)
the pic shows i used a rachet, but i had to use a 14mm combo wrench, would recomend the you go buy a racheting combo wrench

had to make a custom boxend wrench when the combo wrench was to long

after you remove all six, the case will slid off, rember it does wheigh 60lbs lol

tranny output shaft

getting ready to lift her into place

put the new case into 2hi and then slide the case on using the rear output yoke to alline the input shaft to the outout shaft of the trans

next its time to put every thing back

dont forget to use loctight, just incase

reinstall everything you just rmoved and the case is in!

i had to readdjust the shifting linkage… i just losend the adjustment bold (14mm) and shifted into 2 hi and retightened the bolt, and it worked for me

reinstall the tcase skid and your done

old tcase:

Home Made Disconnects

I decided to make my own quick disconnects, this mod can be done with stock swaybar links..

I started with (2) grade 8 3/8″ x 2″ bolts and (2) grade 8 3/8″ with (4) 3/8″ washers…
I marked the bolts after installing aftermaket swaybar links (i used the rear links off my jeep, because i had some BDS quick discos up front (and like em) and decided to do this)

then I notched the bolts with my cutt off wheel so make it easier to drill though them…
be sure to leave the nut on the bolt while notching the bolts, it’ll help debur and fix the threads…

next I drilled the holes in the bolts,…

the pin it to just keep the nut from backing all the way off, because i only hand tighten lol

I welded some tumb tabs on my grade 8 bolts and nuts…

not pretty but functional…

welded some pins to the frame to hold the swaybar links when not in used (the only reason why i did this setup lol )

I discovered that the place that I choose to weld my link holding pins rubs on the the tire under flex, but no bad enough to damage the tire…
only my little hitch pins get bent, but the links dont readly fall off so I don’t need the hitch pins to hold the links there

i also switched over to this style retaining pin (just personal preference), I feel like it wont fall off as easily

thanks to tony for helping and pas for the idea!

Rock Lights

Rock Lights Installation

What I Used:
5: 55 Watt FogLights
2: 40 Amp Relays
1: Lighted Switch


Control Circuit Power Is Off Of The Cigarett Lighter Jack…
Because It Turns Off With The Ignition…

Front Pas. Light:

Middle Bumper Light:

Front Driver Light:

Rear Pas. Light:

Rear Driver Light:

Lights Powered Up:

Tube Fenders: Part 2

Today we finished the flat fender install!

First we monted the fenders losely and removed the head light bezels…

driver side shot

pass side shot

almost done…

the acceserys will pretty much tell ya where to mount them.

had to trim the sliders to fit…

gonna trim the cutoff to fit and weld back on when perfect…


a/c lines are just twisted up slightly to clear fenders

as a note to anyone trying this or any mod…
ziplock bags and a sharpie are your best friends!

Big Thanks To Pas And Chris For Helping!

Tube Fenders

Well I have started my install of my new tnt customs tube fenders with 3 inch flare. I installed new turn signal ligths 2 weeks ago in preparation of this install.

pass side removed…

had to drop the sliders for the install  :'(

side view fender-less

pass side with inee fender support removed (this is what the battery is bolted to)…

drivers side gone!….

I’ll post up the rest of the install when I finish tomorrow.