Category Archives: Jeep Build

Trail Damage

well, i had some trail damage on sat. night (4-4-09)

thank you KT for the pictures

my bent tie rod finally said that enough and bent enough to make it impossible to drive home. luckly digdug was there and he ran home and got his extra stock jeep tj tie rod, which i replaced in top of the hill with my rocklights providing more than enough light to work… then we drove to sinisters house to get the alinement close enough to drive home.

and today i when shopping and got some new parts.

i ordered a new 3 row radiator hopfuly this will solve all my overheating issues once and for all, and bought a rugged ridge HD tierod setup, a teraflex steering atablizer, and a dana 30 assuie locker.

Changing Dana 30 U-Joints

Tools I Used:

  • 3/8 Drive Ratchet
  • 3/8 Drive Sockets (13mm 6 Point, 13mm 12 Point)
  • old socket to be used a punch
  • Slot Head Screw Driver
  • Hammer
  • Vise
  • Hi-lift
  • Jackstands
  • 19mm Lug Wrench

First and formost, jack her up and suport her… then remove tires using lug wrench

then remove the 2 bolts holding the brake calipers on (13mm 6 Point)

next remove the 3 bolts holding on the wheel bearing (13mm 12 Point) and if you need use a hammer and some pb’laster to break them loose

once the 3 bolts are removed, the axle/wheel hub assy will just slid out

repeat the same for the other side

next remove all clips on each u-joint (4 per u-joint)

the new joints

they are greasable, pictured with out zerk fitting

using the vise to support the axle, and a old socket to use as a punch, and tap the u-joint all the way to on side and the u-joint cap will just pop off, then reverse and tap the u-joint all the way to the other side untill the other cap pops out, once all caps are removed the u-joint can be removed. heres one half way removed,

next remove the caps of the new j-oint very carefuly …

next insert the u-joint

next insert on of the caps and hold the u-joint agaist it

and tap in

repeat on the other side

and dont forget to insert the clips

repeat to do the other side of the u-joint

install the zerk fittings, then put it all back together… i used loc-tite because im paranoid lol

Hood & Backup Lights

i got bored today and deiced to fix 2 problems with my jeep.

1 i needed a new hood light… so i bought the bulb and installed…

and 2 i needed to install some backup lights after a year of not having any…

so i bought these

first i removed the mounts

then i popped the cover and removed the ground, as they ground they are selfgrounding


and i was thinking something like this

so i cut some holes

deburred them

hooked them up to the stock revers light wires



also i had an extra switch i installed a while back and i wired it as to override onto the reverse switch (located on the driver side on the NSG370 6 Speed trany)

the override switch is so i can turn them on while not in reverse… should help with tailgaters  :jester:

note that the red wire is the 12VDC hot and the white is the switch leg… also note that i had a 50/50 chance to get it right the first time and i failed lol

and lastly … i love my flashlight!!!

i know that they aren’t pretty… but maybe i can find a cheap lens that’ll cover the holes

Custom TJ Swing Gate Hi-Lift Mount Part II

well got some rod couplings to use as spacers over my 1/2″ bolts…

and i cut ’em down to 1 1/2″


heres what i used for the first style

using the sleeves let me move the jack about a half inch closer to the tail gate… making it possible to install the spare again.. but i still need a spacer

you cant remove the jack without removing the spare…

locking lugnuts used to lock spare and high-lift

another open gate pic

hi-lift base trimmed a little so it cant possibly hit the tub

Custom TJ Swing Gate Hi-Lift Mount

well i got a crazy idea so here it goes..

first i bought some 3/16″ X 1 1/4″ X 36″ flat stock steel

and i measured…

and i cut 2 pieces @ 9 1/4″ long

using a 13mm socket remove tailgate hinges

used a clamp to flatten bump

used mutiple clamps to mold flat stock

drilled holes using a 3/8″ drill bit and a 7/8″ hole saw

mounted for measurements

got measurments

burn the 1/2″ X 2 1/2″ bolts in place

please be gentle , im a self taught welder… need more pratice

mount and test

gate open

remove everything and paint

mounted again

In Cab Winch Controls!

Well I Got This All Worked Out While I Was Waiting To Buy My Winch Bumper…

and i went shopping…

i pulled the all wires needed though out the jeep…

and brought the 3 wires needed to the winch

made up the fuse holder

cut the red , install fuse, and install main power wire for in cab winch controls

the relay will prevent use of the winch if the jeep is off…. just incase if people mess with my jeep…

land the other 2 control wires

installed a fuse inline of the power wire, on its was into the cab… used the acc. control to control the relay (relay turns on/off with jeep)

pulled apart dash…


install switches and wire em…

winch control on…

Fab Fours Jeep Front Bumper

Well I just installed my Fab Fours Bumper and my 8,000lbs winch that I got for xmas from my dad

played with the idea of using the univeral winch plate…

can can we say hell no!

so first i removed the front bumper (torx 55 bolts)

new bumper

i rested the bumper on some bocks

place the winch fairlead plate on

bolt the winch to the bumper (sandwiching the fairlead plate between bumper and winch)

(dont forget to install the fair lead befor installing winch

bolt bumper to jeep with 6 3/4″ bolts

wire up the winch

and lastly

SYE Oil Seal

I had To Repace The Oil Seal On The SYE on my new tcaase, becasue it was leaking…

Tools Needed

  • 1/4″ Drive Ratchet
  • 13mm Socket
  • 1/2″ Drive Ratchet
  • 1 1/8″ socket
  • Stright Blade Screw Driver
  • Hammer
  • Loc-tite
  • Grease

1 hour

new seal:

here is the seal i ordered for my sye(idk what sye i have), its spec for the teraflex sye…

first i packed the new seal with some grease to hold the spring inplace

then i removed all the bolts holting the drive shaft to the sye output yoke (13mm)

use the 1 1/8″ socket to remove the nut that hold the yoke on

pull on the yoke, it should pull off easily

use the screwdriver to pry out the seal, working the srewdrive all the way around the seal

new vs. old

slid on the new seal

use the hammer to ever so lightly tap the seal into the sye, make sure to evenly work all the around the circumfrence of the seal

yay its int!


slide yoke back on

use socket to start and hand tighten the nut

and tighten really tight, ya dont want it coming back off lol

reinstall drive shaft and your done!

rember to start all the bolts on the drive shaft cv joint be for tightening

and your done

Adjusted The Rear Upper Control Arms

Well I Just Adjusted The Rear Upper Control Arms To Remove The Drive Line Vibes…

Tools Needed

  • 420 Channel Locks
  • Ratchet
  • 15mm Socket


First I Lossed The Retaining Nut With The Channel Locks on both Rear Upper Control Arms

Then I Used The Ratchet and 15mm Socket To Remove The Upper Control Arm Bolt From The Frame Pocket

While Both Arms Are Hanging Down Turn Them Both Counter Clockwise To Extend Them

Remember to do both side equally, if you have any hope of retaining your current alignment

After you extend the control arms to the desired lenght, you can reinstall the control arm bolts in the control arm pocket…

you’ll have to push up on the pinion to roll the pinion up so you can line up the arms to the bolt holes in the pocket

i highly recommend to use a floor jack for that… but i just used brute strength to roll the pinion up.

once those bolts are tight, dont forget to retighten the Retaining Nut With The Channel Locks on both Rear Upper Control Arms


And Now I Have No More Drive Line Vibes!